Lago Trasimeno is in the region of Umbria and we headed to an area called Passignano Sul Trasimeno. We spent a total of 3 nights in, I must say, the best campsite we have stayed in so far and had a pitch right on the lake shore, the site is called Camping La Spiaggia.  We setup our little environment and admired the tranquil views across the lake and Passignano.

Our pitch was spacious, the dog area was just right with plenty of room for Alfie and Jerry to have fun in the water chasing balls. The campsite was spotless, friendly and had a bar and restaurant serving fantastic food.  

Passignano is only a 10-minute walk and is an ancient fishing village. A mix of architecture from the investment over the centuries and we loved the retro feel and how the blend of building designs mixed together. Random fact, Passignano has one of the world’s largest frying pans, able to cook up to 2 tonnes of fish in one go and is used during festivals. There is a choice of restaurants, mainly with views of the lake and all have wonderful service and food. Of course, we had a Gelato (ice cream) or maybe that was a few!

Lake Trasimeno has a cycle path around the shoreline, it can be enjoyed by both bike and walking and is 59km in total.

We spent our time enjoying the views, playing and swimming with the dogs, walking some of the peripheral of the lake and obviously eating, drinking and just relaxing.

We had to take Jerry to the vets while we were there due to him having a bad paw.  As Jerry does get very stressed when visiting the vets, he had to be sedated.  The vet found 4 grass seeds deeply embedded in one of his paws and had to surgically extract them, along with this she also found a long one in his ear.  Those grass seeds are causing us an issue, time to think about serious prevention!!  Vets were excellent and a hell of a lot cheaper than the UK.

All together a wonderful time spent at Trasimeno.

Upon leaving we travelled around the lake to a lovely location called Castiglione del Lago. In the Middle Ages it became a powerful fortified village. However the castle has had a chequered past having been built, destroyed, rebuilt, destroyed and rebuilt again transforming it to a fortress called Castello del Leone (Castle of the Lions) which later became Castigilione. The historic centre is surrounded by medieval walls with three gates, the fortress has the shape of an irregular pentagon with five towers dominated by a triangle main tower nearly 30 metres tall. 

We wondered around the narrow streets and came across a unimpressive cafe however it had beautiful panoramic views over the lake and superb food. A very relaxed lunch taking in our surroundings and then we embarked upon our journey back to Radicondoli.

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Monteriggioni is about 40 minutes from Radicondoli and is an exquisite tiny Tuscan village.  Its history began in 1200 and started life as a fortified castle in a prime location to control the disputed border territory between Florence and Siena.  The village is one of the most impressive medieval villages in Italy today as it remains untouched for centuries, pretty much as it was 800 years ago.  Monteriggioni is distinctive due to its intact surrounding castle wall supporting 14 watchtowers and can be seen from afar, sitting pretty within undulating countryside and striped vineyards. 

This historic village is accessed via one of the original gateways, the Porta Franca, you quickly reach the central square, the Piazza Roma and is home to the 13th-century small Romanesque Church of Santa Maria.  

There are several Renaissance style palazzos to sit and ideal the time away and a few traditional shops to peruse and due to the impressive preservation of its historic architecture and background it really is an unusual place to visit.

We spent a lovely evening in the Piazza and enjoyed a bottle of wine and some food.

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As we promised ourselves, we returned to San Gimignano (a place we previously rode to on our bikes) with the dogs in the early evening.  This was such a pleasant time to go as the temperature was cooling and we were ready for a wonder, a drink, and some food.

Having read some of the history of San Gimignano, prior to our visit, I was full of knowledge and could have been a tour guide!

San Gimignano is a medieval town in the hills of Val d’Elsa in Tuscany.  It is a relatively small town however due to its remarkable medieval centre and interesting skyline of towers it is a wonderful place to visit.  San Gimignano began in 988 and became an important centre of trade for predominately saffron.  It is accessed by 3 gates and is surrounded by city walls. Between the 11^th and 13^th century the town became a Municipality away from the power of the bishop.  As with a lot of Italian cities and towns, San Gimignano was subject to a long history of battles.  In the 14^th century the town became under the rule of Florence and this lasted until the 16^th century.

As power and wealth grew, so did the construction of buildings.  One of the striking architectural joys of this village is the towers, scattered amongst the medieval buildings.  The towers were built by prominent families to flaunt their wealth and power and they would build towers taller than their neighbours’.  This continued until the lord of the town announced no one was allowed to build a tower higher than his! There were originally 72 however only 13 still exist today.  

In 1348 plague wiped out most of the population and this weakened the local economy, leading to the town’s submission to Florence in 1353. The long economic decline San Gimignano suffered did the town a longer-term favour as it preserved the building heritage, that gives the town its appeal today.

There are two central Piazza’s, art galleries, museums, several churches, local produce traditional shops and beautiful cuisine restaurants along with the skyline of towers and the views of the Tuscan hills. What more could you ask for from a medieval historic town?

We had a lovely walk through and around the town, taking in the panoramic views from the outer city walls and meandering through the narrow streets observing the traditional shops selling all sorts of local produce and products.  We did have a Gelato (ice cream), why wouldn’t you! Then settled at a Piazza bar, which had a local band playing, and ordered our drinks.  The bar was in one of the Piazza’s which contained an ancient large well, we stayed here, as the ambiance was lovely, and had a delicious meal of pizza and Italian salad.  

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I have been doing a mixture of mountain and road cycling.  On average the road bike rides have been over 20 miles with elevations gains over 2000ft through the Tuscan challenging landscape.  Needless to say, my fitness is fast improving.

A lovely ride we did was from Castol San Gimignana to San Gimignano a round trip of 22.39 miles with an elevation gain of 2385 ft in the hot Tuscan sun.  After riding for 14 miles we did have a sneaky stop in San Gimignano, a beautiful historic town.  The pizza was delightful and one of the best I have ever tasted, followed by a beer (not such a good idea) and a coffee to give me a caffeine boost for the ride back.  We would have loved to adventure around the town, as it looked wonderful, however we had cycling shoes on (not the best to walk in) so we plan to revisit another day, minus the bikes, and with the dogs. 

The journey back was hard, due to the heavy load of a pizza, beer, and coffee.  I accomplish the long, slow rising hills in good time and with fierce determination.

Another ride we have done a few times is an out and back to Chiudino, 27.5 miles with an elevation gain of 2612 ft in 35-degree heat.  On this ride I obtained 14 Strava achievements; go me.  Chiudino is a small Tuscan village with beautiful panoramic views across the landscape.  Again, a sneaky drink, a coke this time and a small lunch to give me energy for the ride back.  A very hot return journey however was worth the challenge.

My favourite place to either cycle to or just visit is still Casole D’Elsa. A historic Etruscan settlement situated along the spine of a hill with a stunning panoramic view of the Sienese countryside.  With its characteristic city walls and two round towers it is a stunning village I just love.  This is another out and back ride of 24 mile with an elevation gain of 2268 ft.

We have also done a few mountain bike rides.  Finding a route is hard as a lot of the Strade Bianche, white roads, are not maintained, and some are impassable or extremely rocky making it difficult to ride.  When we do find a route, it always cuts through stunning scenery, often we see wildlife such as herds of deer.  On average our mountain bike rides are about 14 miles of hard rocky terrain.

Although the climate and terrain in Tuscany is challenging, to say the least, it is such an accomplishment to finish a ride.  With the adrenaline pumping, the feeling of triumph and achievement is overwhelming. 

How do I focus

It is never an option to stop.  Apart from how the hell do I get back, you would never be able to finish if you do!

Cycling, the same as for running, is an ideal opportunity to disappear into your own world, it is your space and time, it is your journey, let go of your thoughts and feel free. 

Schedule your exercise and don’t rethink, just do it. Never start a session with negative thoughts as you will struggle all the way through.  Start determined, be up for the challenge and be positive.   

Set yourself small goals.  If you have a long session ahead, focus on the first half, even break that down into further sections and only think about each small goal at a time.  When the going gets tough I count to 10, the number of times I have counted to 10!! 

The most important area of any exercise is your breathing.  There is no point going fast and furious if your breathing is rapid and uncontrolled.  Your muscles need oxygen, so give it to them, your body needs to relax, so allow it to. If your breathing is controlled and deep you will come to a natural rhythm, use this to make your exercise flow.  If you master your breathing, your ability will grow, your endurance will increase, and you will succeed.

When I am exercising, I ask myself what else would I be doing? If I want to be healthy and strong then I must put the effort in, no pain no gain!  Strength grows when you keep going, learn to love the process and you will fall in love with the results.  

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Spending more time to appreciate this spectacular city perfectly preserved from its gothic medieval period.  The superb restaurants, bustling squares, labyrinth of cobbled backstreets and cathedrals adorned with medieval architecture and monuments.

In the centre is the cities prominent Piazza del Campo, a central medieval square with its 17 historic contrade (districts) extending outwards.  This is the home of one of Italy’s most dramatic events the ‘Il Campo’ the scene of the Palio horse race, not having run last year due to Covid, we are hoping the race will run this year and we will still be in Italy to witness the event. The Il Campo is where the cities districts have completed since the 1600s, it’s about pride and identity where even those bound by marriage separate for a few days because they belong to different districts.

As you observe it is evident the Piazza is a central hub where many locals and visitors come together, chatting, entertaining, and indulging in the picnics spread in front of them.  Joyful groups frequent the bars sipping coffee, beer, wine, cocktails and eat the traditionally Italian food. 

Off the Piazza there are many narrow paths, offering shadow from the Tuscan sun, leading to courtyards, churches and many traditional family run shops and restaurants.  Explore to witness an abundance of local produce and culture.  Although the Piazza restaurants are positioned great for people watching, I just love the little restaurants that offer tables and stalls, perched precariously on the steep gradient of the narrow paths. Service is attentive and food is wonderful.

Siena is also home to one of Italy’s most beautify cathedral. Even if Cathedrals are not your thing it is well worth the visit. The grand Duomo is an awesome structure with its stunning façade, striped bell tower and fascinating interior, continuing the theme of striped walls of red, white and green marble, towering pillars and intricate floors with a beautiful star painted vault ceiling. Since 1215 the Duomo di Siena has collected works of art including Michelangelo, Pinturicchio and Donatello, evident all around. To really appreciate the Duomo view it from a distance, wander up one of the surrounding steep paths and see the marble exterior contrast with the cities deep sandy streets.

We did have a purpose to revisit Siena, and this was to find a dog sitter!  We are heading back to the UK at the end of July for Graham’s son’s wedding, postponed several times due to Covid.  As we have Alfie and Jerry (the dogs) with us we felt it far easier to find someone to look after them while we are away.  Easier said than done!

Having looked at Kennels in our local area we have ruled this out as an option.  Although we held out great hope for a couple of places, we had researched prior to coming over, websites looked great, we were disappointed when we went to view.  Kennels in Italy are very traditional back to how they were in the UK many years ago.  Dogs in metal cages and let out for 20 minutes twice a day.  Very noisy and not great in the temperatures of the summer.  We quickly ruled this option out as this is just not what our dogs are used to, especially Jerry our older dog and the more sensitive one, as he would find this environment very distressing.  

After Graham researching more, we found a couple of websites where individuals advertised as dog sitters.  Following a few emails, we arranged to meet a lovely guy in Siena to see if he was suitable for the role.  We met in the Piazza and wondered along to a bar he frequented and had a beer together, to get to know each other.  A lovely guy, we could not have hoped for a better person to look after the two dogs.  We are popping back nearer the date to see his accommodation (which he shares with this English girlfriend) and to finalise the details.  Phew what a relief this is now sorted just the rules around Covid and quarantine to go!

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Why so many villages and what makes them so special?  During the Middle Ages and then the renaissance, Tuscany organised into independent municipalities.  Siena and Florence were the strongest local powers, and many villages were born or grew as strongholds to protect one from the attack of the other.  

This is the reason why so many are fortified, hilltop walled small communities, making them stunning, with beautiful panoramic views over the valleys in their areas.  The villages/small towns are unspoilt and maintain their urban historical glory with their narrow streets meandering with the contour of the hill sides.  

I admire the aging residents, as daily they carelessly walk the steep gradients to get to the piazza and amenities.   How fit they stay.  Often, I take note that they do this on a daily and sometime twice daily basis, stopping on the way to chat to their friends and acquaintances, have a coffee at the local bar and to pick up groceries and necessities.

The locals come out at night to sit, on what looks like claimed benches, within friendship groups to chat the evening away.  This is called the passeggiata (early evening stroll) a wonderful tradition that sees Tuscans in towns walk to a get a gelato (a chat), meet friends, contemplate the sunset and quite simply, relish the ‘close of the day’ at an exceedingly relaxed pace.  Unlike in the UK, as we feel it necessary to do this only over a beer or two, the Tuscan locals don’t, they just simply chat and occasionally have an espresso at the bar. 

Also, it is a delight to see the local children, of all ages, come out in numbers bringing their bikes, scooters, footballs, and toys to joyfully play together in the streets.  They seem so free whilst playing their games seamlessly and beautifully together.

Taking advantage of our camper van we have decided to take ourselves off for 3 nights to the Gulf of Baratti.   Camper van life here we come again.  All packed up and dog’s safety ready for the trip, we headed for an agricampeggio which is nestled in amongst the bays hills.

Whilst in Tuscany I recommend you visit the Gulf of Baratti, it is a patch of unspoilt nature between the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian Seas, situated a stone’s throw from Piombino on the coastline approaching Grosseto from Livorno.  

It is a timeless place where nature, history and the coastline come together.  The bay was one of the most important Etruscan ports on the Tuscan coastline, an active and bright trading place for iron, which was brought over from Island of Elba.  The sand is black and silver in colour and shines under the sun, the remains of the ancient iron processing.  Just behind the beach there is a thick pine forest with an array of striking historic tall trees and it is well worth watching the sunset behind this unique tree line.

Our campsite was a 15-minute walk following a rustic path through to the forest area, we stopped at a converted café bus and ate a huge panini stuffed with fresh local produce, it was called a ‘blacky’, extremely delicious.

As the bay is not commercialised in anyway there are few restaurants.  We did have a lovely meal at a restaurant called Canessa, a lovely spot at the far left of the bay overlooking the harbour and sea.  Watching the sun set whilst eating seafood and drinking wine.

There were a couple of beach bars with our favourite one being the Sunset bar. We loved drinking Aperol Spritz whilst people watching and listening to the sea. Found it easy to relax and just enjoy the ambience of the bay.

Headed back to Radicondoli for a tranquil relaxing afternoon admiring the Tuscan view from our farmhouse whilst listening to nature and the bell of the clock tower informing us of the hr of the day.

No cooking tonight as out for a meal at Agriteca, our local of preference.  No doubt we will have a little chat with our 3 residents we pass each night we visit the Piazza.  We need to prepare a conversation as they speak no English, time for a practise!

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Cecina is a Tuscan River and a charming part of the river is called “Masso delle fanciulle” meaning rock of the girl.  It is a natural reserve called Berignone near Promarance.  We arrived at an iron bridge parked and wondered downstream for a while, it was tranquil and beautiful.   Noticing people walking across the bridge and into the woods, we followed.  

After walking along a flat dirt track for 20 minutes we found the river Cecina and the Boulder of the Maidens.  The reason for this name is explained by a local legend: Three girls escaped the oppression of a local squire and jumped from the rock and drowned.  Not a very nice legend however it is a lovely place with the boulder surrounded by pools of deep blue water you can swim in and either picnic along the shore of the pools or in the woods at tables nestled amongst the trees.  

We had a lovely time with the dogs, throwing sticks and splashing in the water.  Even I got in and took a dip in the cooling water.

We eventually returned to the camper van and had a lovely lunch on the way back to the farmhouse. A couple of Aperol Spritz in the local Piazza and back to read before bed.

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Off we go for some wine tasting, we want to taste and drink the wine from the local area as it is important to us to support the local area and taste locally produced produce.   Having tasted the La Fonte wine, from the vineyard we are staying, which was lovely and it has given us a taste of what this region can give us.  One night while sitting at a restaurant that was nestled in the hills, we noted a vineyard and booked a tasting session.  

The Fattoria Camporignano estate and winery lies on the Siena hills in one of the most enchanting of Tuscan sceneries. Its boundaries are the production areas of Chianti Classico on one side, and Vernaccia San Gimignano on the other.  The estate comprises of a 10 hectares vineyard and a large winery.

The grape varieties are Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are hand harvested and attentively selected to destinate to each wine the grapes with the most suitable characteristics. The maceration (to soften) and fermentation of grapes takes place in French oak barriques. 

We purchased 18 bottles in total 

6 x RosaRosa  – Variety of grape, Sangiovese 100%.  Soft pink color, delicate notes of roses and citrus, fresh and savory, pleasantly crisp, with a really pleasant finish

6 x Colori – A mix of red grapes generally called “Colorini”. Deep dark ruby red, with intense smell of fruits, dark cherry in evidence, underlined by delicate hints of flower and spices. Great structure, big bodied. Velvety tanins for a very long finish.

6 x Camporignano – Variety of grape, Sangiovese 80% – Merlot 20%.  Lively ruby red, with clear and intense scents of red fruit and white flowers. Fresh, sapid, well structured, balanced and persistent.

As these bottles are of exceptional quality, we will be sipping a glass or two savouring the taste whilst overlooking the stunning Tuscan landscape.

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Issue 1 – Following Brexit and the UK no longer being a part of Schengen (European free movement of 26 countries) you can only spend 90 days within 180 days period in the Schengen area without a visa. Therefore, we must exit Schengen and move to a non-Schengen country after our 90 days is up.

Getting a Visa post Brexit is not easy – believe me!!! might get easier as time goes on but being one of the first to apply the answer was no (we met all criteria).  

Issue 2 – We have a European Animal Health Certificate which enabled us to bring our dogs with us.  However, this is only valid for 4 months and runs out in September (UK passports that were part of the EU are no longer valid since Brexit).

We are planning to go to Croatia at the end of August (not currently in Schengen) we need to either get an extension of the health certificate or (as the advice from Eurotunnel and the internet says) obtain a European pet passport.  We are in discussion with an Italian vet, however this is not easy as we are the first to ask since Brexit.  The vets are liaising with the Animal Health authorities, we will keep you posted on the outcome; fingers crossed. 

Issue 3 – Where we can go that is not in Schengen is very restricted as most of Europe is within Schengen! Also, we need to consider the Covid red zones and further complication is the dogs due to the fact if the country is a high-risk Rabies area (irrespective of them having the inoculation) the dogs will have to quarantine upon re-entrance, an option we will not take.  Therefore, our plan to go to Montenegro is off the list as it is a high risk for both Rabies and Covid.

If we don’t get the European passport or an animal health certificate, we will simply have to cut our adventure short and return to the UK.  Definitely not what we want!  

Brexit is an absolute pain for anyone from the UK trying to travel freely around Europe, our freedom of movement has been seriously restricted!