How did it all start!
Let me introduce us …. we have bought a camper van and planned an adventure starting in Europe for 1 year and this would consist of a mixture of van life and renting properties.
We are Graham and Karen …
In summary … Graham made the decision to take early retirement after 41 years working and commuting to the City of London. I had a serious ski accident Christmas Day 2019 and Covid hit us beginning of 2020. All together we had the time to reflect on life and made the decision we would embrace our future, now, as none of us know just how long we have in front of us.
Life can get very routine and we all plod along doing the same thing day in and day out and before you know it years have passed. We look back and reflect upon what we have actually achieved and there is so much more out there we can experience; the world is a big place.
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From the blog
- TRAVELLING TO DUBROVNIK
We are heading now towards Dubrovnik where we are going to spend the rest of our stay in Croatia. As the weather is getting a little chillier, we are renting a studio apartment. We aim to continue to improve our Italian as our return to Italy is soon approaching and we are going to continue our fitness with a focus on cycling. To break up the journey we stayed in a few sites on the way down.
Croatian mainland is intersected by a small strip of the coast around the town of Neum which is part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, forming Bosnia and Herzegovina’s only outlet to the sea. All traffic travelling from south-eastern Croatia to Dubrovnik has to undergo two border checks, alternatively, you can take a ferry to avoid the borders (foot and car).
The Pelješac Bridge is near completion with the purpose to provide a fixed link, thereby passing entirely through Croatian territory and avoiding any border crossings with Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum.
Ston
Our first stop in the county of Dubrovnik was Ston. An area famous for its wall at a 5km length (was once 7km) making it the longest defensive structure in Europe. Built to protect the salt pans with 3 fortresses. Ston is small but worth a short stopover for lunch and a cheeky drink.
Onwards to Lapad
Located outside of the old town situated in an enclave this is where we are going to stay for the duration of our visit to Dubrovnik. Lapad provides a good array of restaurants, bars, places to stay, beach and forest walks. Our studio apartment is lovely with fantastic hosts and off-road parking for our van. We are only a few steps up from the centre and a short walk to the beach and forest.
Rain, rain, rain and thank God we are in an apartment. Some down time is in order. One activity we still need to do irrelevant of the weather is walking the dogs, a good thing as it gets us out and about. We brought the OCULAS out with us, so out this comes, purely for the exercise! Oh ok for entertainment as well, along with focusing on our Italian learning and general fitness of Yoga and HIIT.
Graham continued to swim however gave that up due to the colder sea temperature!! Luckily the rain stopped and brighter weather continued.
Cycling in Dubrovnik! Throughout Croatian we experienced excellent cycling facilities, with an array of designated cycling paths which were well maintained, well sign posted and varied in distance and difficulty. However, in Dubrovnik these didn’t exist and the only option is to ride on the roads. Well ….. the drivers really don’t like cyclists and have no tolerance, at all, making it dangerous. We went out 3 times however had to really give this up due to the lack of ability to do it safely.
So, what did we do In Lapad. We found a lovely Irish pub and made this our local. Good Guinness, sport TV and a little atmosphere. We also wondered down to a local brewery and grazed through the many varieties of their beers. Walks with the dogs were through the national forest and along the coastline normally finishing with a café and the odd time a piece of cake. There was a really good Mexican restaurant, engaging hosts and fabulous food and a good but expensive cocktail bar on the rock edge overlooking the bay. Any many more restaurants café’s and bars
Dubrovnik
Venturing through the Pile Gate you enter a completely different world.
Located next to the deep blue sea, with a defensive wall encircling the city which has protected Dubrovnik from raids for centuries. Nearly 6m thick, 2km long and 25 m high, built-in 10th century and repaired 13-14th century, the walls constitutes a solid defences barrier that prevents enemy hostile forces from entering.
It costs 20 euros each to scale the stone staircases and embark on the scenic amazing walk around the perimeter, there are several ticket check gates along the way, allowing you the flexibility and freedom of leaving and re-entering the wall.
Our route started near the Pile Gate and headed up a steep flight of stone stairs to the top of the wall. From the top you get a much better appreciation of Dubrovnik’s stunning layout, as well as some fantastic views of the city, a patch work of church domes and bell towers poking through the sea of red roofs, the ability to obtain a full understanding of the maze of small winding streets and the Adriatic Sea with its harbours. The width and height of the walls varies as you walk around getting as narrow as a metre wide in some areas, the dizzying views all around you are just perfect.
The highest point of the walls is at the Minčeta Tower, with its walls up to 12 m think and worth a steep climb up to the top of the tower with more spectacular views. The other fortresses are Bokar, Lovrjenac and Revelin.
Church St. Blaise was built 12th century with a major earthquake in 17th century destroying this building and was rebuilt 2 decades later.
The clock Tower was built in 1444, 2 ton bronze bell with two bronze men statues called Zelenci (Blue man) who hit the bell and the tower is 31m high.
In the back alleys of the Old town there was a small yellow sign reading “cold drinks with the most beautiful view” this was the entrance of the Buza bar. Literally a hole in the city wall you find yourself on the edge of the cliff, staring directly at the Adriatic Sea with the best view of Lokrum Island. Perched on the cliff side with crude metal scaffolding poles and concrete platforms to prevent you stumbling down the cliff side. You can sip your drinks while taking in the location, soaking up the atmosphere, while watching crazy people cliff jumping against a magnificent sun set back drop – No toilet so drink carefully!!
There are a huge number of restaurants in Dubrovnik, too many to mention individually. During our stay we took it in turns to choose a restaurant and had a little competition, who could choose the best restaurant for food, drink and hospitality. I must say we had such an array of magnificent food with the hosting attentive and informative and just each day/night was a wonderful experience. Although the food throughout Croatia was a mixed and in the majority poor, Dubrovnik stood out and we could not fault it.
You can also take a cable car to Mount Srd mountain which presents you with an opportunity to see entire landscape of the beautiful city, a memorable scene of Dubrovnik especially at sunset from a height of up to 778m.
Lokrum Island is a 15 min boat trip and is a botanical garden, fortress, monastery and a nudist beach!
Little bit of history:
The Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was made of six republics: Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Macedonia. The largest among them is Serbia, while Montenegro is the smallest.
The Balkans war – Why Servia invaded Croatia
In June 1991, the republics of Slovenia and Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, beginning the country’s break up. The next month, the Yugoslav army, largely composed of Serbs and controlled by Slobodan Milosevic, invaded Croatia, justifying the act as a means to protect the Serbian minority there.
The former Yugoslavia was a Socialist state created after German occupation in World War II and a bitter civil war. A federation of six republics, it brought together Serbs, Croats, Bosnian Muslims, Albanians, Slovenes and others under a comparatively relaxed communist regime. Tensions between these groups were successfully suppressed under the leadership of President Tito. After Tito’s death in 1980, tensions re-emerged. The Serb-dominated Yugoslav army lashed out, first in Slovenia and then in Croatia.
The Yugoslav forces mounted a sea attack on Dubrovnik in October 1991, just four months after Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, setting off a four-year war. More than 25,000 people died during the war in Croatia.
The city was subject to a major bombing campaign with 886 buildings being totally destroyed and 1,675 sustaining damage. Although it is hard to spot it now, the only clues you have are the pockmarks left on some buildings and roofs which have been restored, with their bright orange newer roof tiles standing out against the more weathered originals.
- PRIMOSTEN
A one night stay, turned into two nights. What a camping spot we found in Primosten literally on the beach in amongst the trees. A secluded area with idyllic surroundings for sitting outside the van barbequing, listening to the sea and watching the colourful sun sets; what a find.
Our first day we took a 2km lovely coastal walk into Primosten. Dogs enjoyed another day of climbing and jumping off rocks into the waves and splashing, chasing balls in the sea. We played with the dogs, sat just listening to the waves, whilst chatting about our travels past, present and future.
The beach area was being sculptured into a motocross course, looked like fun so we decided to stay another day to watch the event. So, the next day, off we went, along the coast to Primesten and found a bar, next to the finish line.
The bar was in a fabulous spot, right next to the beach, in an ideal location for enjoying the event and people watching. Beers in hand we settle down for the day, immersing ourselves in the build-up of atmosphere. Music playing, contestants competitively racing, bikes jumping and sliding around the course, spraying pebbles as the bikes came to a stop past the finish line.
The beach became scattered with groups of motocross riders with their treasured bikes, enjoying the day along with their families, friends and crates of beer. All silhouetted against the dramatic sunset, contributing to a spectacular scene and atmosphere. One hell of a good day.
- KRKA National Park
Krka is significantly smaller than Plitvice lakes however, still beautiful. I would say it is less crowded, a blessing as there is only one walking trail around the national park compared to Plitvices Lakes having multiple trails of varying lengths.
The Krka National Park is home to 7 stunning waterfalls with the largest one being the Skradinski Buk. Krka is not just about nature, it also has remnants of history as a reminder of its industrial past, powered by the waterfalls. With its mighty stone mills, local farmers use to grind grain since ancient times. The poor, who lived with no water, use to come with their laundry and wash their bedclothes and blankets up until the 1980’s. The powerful waterfalls of Krka power the mills all year round.
Today the renovated 13th century houses form a small village, a museum demonstrating how life use to be before the industrial revolution. Home to a 19th century watermill, a blacksmiths and you can watch people dressed in traditional Dalmatian clothing creating colourful patterned carpets and wall art on a weaving loom. Also within the borders of the park are the ruins of a Roman military town.
The waterways around the small village and watermill, gather in pools with the water cascading around moss covered rocks down the rugged terrain. We sat having a coffee watching the many ducks bathing and congregating in the sunshine, an idyllic settling and so peaceful.
The park is home to a tiny island called Visovac and this is home to a 18th century Franciscan Monastery. You can visit, restricted to half an hour, to view the treasures of the monastery museum, however dogs are not allowed therefore we were unable to see this part of the park.
Bathing use to be allowed in this park however to protect nature there has been a ban on swimming since January 2021.
We visited the park twice, the second day our friends Dee and Jim with their dog Ozzy came to join us in the park. Ended up quite a drinking and eating session and not much walking and exploring done. Jim and Dee then headed off to Split to take the ferry crossing to Italy and then on to Spain their next travel chapter. All arranged to meet up in April in Dorset for our rock climbing and coastal experience.
- ZADAR
Our next stop was Zadar where we spent the next 3 days. Finding Campsites is more difficult now as we are out of season and need to research for sites that are open all year-round and there are not many available. The site we found was in a good location just outside of the centre of Zadar and within easy walking distance. No sea view this time but still a good spacious pitch, very clean facilities, good restaurant and a small gymnasium. I was very dedicated as I did yoga and HIIT sessions in the gym using the weights, however regretted doing HIIT with 3kg due to muscle ache.
We arranged to meet up with Jim and Dee for the day in Zadar and met them in a bar just down the road from our campsite. They arrived on their motor bike with their little dog Ozzy in his backpack carried by Dee. We rented electronic scooters for the day and off we shot to Zadar. A fun day out zooming (well not that quick as they have maximum speeds) around Zadar across bridges, through narrow streets, along the roads, frequenting bars as we went along.
Zadar is full of history representing a mix of modern and ancient architecture mainly due to the devastating bombing the city suffered during World War II. The war resulting in large parts of the city having to be reconstructed. However, the city has preserved its heritage and still has a wealth of historic structures, buildings, and culture we can enjoy today and in the future.
An interesting thing to hear and see is a giant harmonica that is played by the sea. An art installation formed by concrete steps on the waterfront promenade which have underwater pipes in them that sound musical notes when filled with water. A magical sound to listen to.
There is also in the same area a giant solar powered public dancefloor called ‘Greating of the Sun’, soaking up the sunshine throughout the day and as night falls coloured lights dazzle the spectators. Although we did not see this active, I bet it is a sight to see especially as you can dance across it.
Along with the main harbour area there are also several smaller quieter harbour waterfronts and a lovely hilltop garden to walk around to get away from the hassle of Zadar.
We spent our time walking in the local area around the coastline, to the bars, the yacht club having the most amazing breakfast and visiting Zadar several times. Lovely time spent in Zadar another good place to visit.
- QUICK STOP AT JABLANAC THEN ONTO STARIGRAD NATIONAL PARK PAKLENICA
OUR NEXT FEW DAYS WITH DEE AND JIM
Off we went back on the road with Jim and Dee heading towards Starigrad. We planned a midway stop at a little harbour called Jablanac, such a quaint place. We parked our vans a little out of the centre, unpacked our pre-prepared lunches, took our table and chairs down to the coastline to enjoy the beautiful view looking back towards the small harbour. Relaxing in the sun we enjoyed a lovely lunch together.
In Starigrad we found a very small, quiet campsite right on the coastline. This is the best spot yet as it had a wall, we could put our table and chairs on, with the sea lapping right below us. The dogs were able to play in the sea while we enjoyed a wine or two, listening to the sea and looking at the view graced by some beautiful sunsets. The campsite was within a small harbour area offering some lovely bars and restaurants, overall, a wonderful spot to say for a few nights.
The Paklencia National Park was just up the road. We spent a lovely 4 days in this area walking the dogs, riding our mountain bikes, and hiking around the National Park. What we also experienced was an introduction to rock climbing, under the expert tuition of Jim and Dee. Jim was a PT in the Navy for marines and now teaches rock climbing, privately and for the DofE, along with a variety of other activities such as sailing and skiing, along with Dee who took a career change to train and assist him. Many an interesting story and adventure they shared with us.
Rock climbing was so much fun, a little competitive between Graham and myself, what he can do I can do and visa-versa! We had a great day climbing with them and accomplished 3 routes in total. My saying was “have you got me”, I am (or is that was) scared of highs so every time I did something a little daring, I use to shout this down to Jim and Dee. We enjoyed it so much we have booked a two-day course with Jim and Dee in Dorset for when we get back. We would like to add rock climbing to the list of activities we can do while traveling.
The Paklencia National park is renowned for its rock climbing and was evident by the number of climbers at the park. The terrain is dramatic with stunning views with deep gorges in amongst the pine forest. Home to two canyons the rock formations are stunning. There are several challenging hiking trails throughout the park, again well marked out. Definitely worth a visit.
Posting new blogs weekly
About Me
Hey there … I’m Karen and previously worked in Finance and the Chemical industry. I have two grown up kids (can I still call them that?!) Selina and Charlie, a partner Graham and two dogs Alfie and Jerry.
Why have I decided to travel
Life is too short …. when you have the opportunity, take it and enjoy life to the full.
My kids have grown up, one is at University studying Politics and Economics at Bournemouth and the other one has started an exciting career working for a Branding and Marketing company in London. Both now independent, love them loads but it is now my time.
I have worked most of my life, saved adequately into a pension, have investments and have a property I am willing to rent out all helping to finance travelling.
So, for 1 year we are embarking on living abroad in Europe. A mixture of accommodation, our camper van and renting properties. Once we have satisfied this travelling desire we are not sure what will be next but would love to continue and also explore Canada and Asia.
My partner and I love road and mountain biking, hiking, skiing and scuba diving all this we would like to embrace wholeheartedly and incorporate into our travels as much as possible. We want to do all this to the full while we can and while with have the fitness and health to do it …. non of us know what is around the corner and how many good years we have left !!
My advice to you all is to live in the moment however also look and plan for the future. That pension of yours is essential to enable you to make the most of life past your kids growing up. I will post separate thoughts on how to make the most of your pension saving. It sounds boring but if you don’t want to be working until you are too old to do anything then please please think about it as soon as you can!!
Travel adventures 