Yes, another Tuscan historic town, what do you expect as we are in Tuscany. This walled top town will enchant you as it offers, like many of the towns, its own special charm and fascination. A larger town, however, it has kept its identity with its Etruscan past as one of 12 power centres from the 4th through to the 6th centuries as well as its Roman history. Starting with the walls which go back to the Etruscan era and were modified through the Middle Ages.
Volterra’s Medici Fortress looks over the surrounding countryside and due to its size and commanding hilltop position is visible from miles away and characterises the skyline. The town has a central Piazza dei Priori, home to the Palazzo dei Pirori the oldest town hall in Tuscany and is locally known as the ‘Tower of the Piglet’ as it has a small stone form of a wild boar. It is the seat of the town’s Mayor. Also in the Piazza is the Duomo of Santa Maria Assunta and Baptistry which dates back to 1120 although heavily modified in the Renaissance era in 1584. It is impressive and richly decorated and is home to many works of art belonging to renowned Italian artists.
There are 6 gates along the Etruscan walls of the city and the oldest and only one that remains mostly intact being the Porta all-Arco and is decorated with 3 heads. Volterra has a number of museums and a park at the top of the hill which has evidence of buildings of various ages from Etruscan to Roman to Medieval.
Volterra was subject to a fierce battle with Florence, over the control of alum mines which was an important mineral used in the production of textiles. The fortress was built shortly after to protect the city but also to keep the city under tight control and to prevent revolts against the new masters of the city.
Just outside the walls is the Roman theater built in the 1st century AD. Behind the amphitheater there are remains of Roman baths from the 4th century, interestingly during the Middle Ages the baths were used as a garbage bump and it was only in 1951 the excavations began.
The Twilight series, New Moon was supposedly based in Volterra however it was actually filmed 70 miles away in Montepulciano.
There is a main event in Volterra during August on the 3rd and 4th Sundays where the citizens roll back time 600 years and celebrate in period costume and hold a medieval fair, an event we will go to.
Phew that was a lot of facts about Volterra.
We had a lovely visit to Volterra wondering the narrow streets, eating ice cream, visiting the traditional shops and taking in the panoramic views from the town’s walls. After our walk around the town, we lunched in the Piazza, there was only one to choose from in the square, but many more delightful restaurants in the surrounding narrow streets. The restaurant in the Piazza was probably not the best due to extremely slow service however it was well positioned for people watching.
We will explore a little more next time we visit for the medieval fair, as we didn’t venture to the theatre or romans baths as we have saved these for when we return.
That evening we met friends, we have made locally, in Radicondoli Piazza at Agriteca for Aperol Spritz as they were heading back to the UK the next day. That evening the trip made more difficult due to the change in quarantine rules in the UK coming into effect Monday if crossing from the French border. A 5 day quarantine coming into play, even if equipped with double vaccine and a negative Covid test!
Travel adventures 